Greetings from the End of the World

First blog post from Chile!


When people find out I've only been here a weekish they always say, "how do you like it at the end of the world?" or "Welcome to the end of the world!"  Chileans complain a lot about all that is wrong with their country, starting with the awkward geographic location, but it seems to me that they are secretly pretty proud of themselves for inhabiting such an unlikley place. 

Chile doesn't seem that different than the states at first glance, but it's the little things that always catch me off guard.  For example, there are stray dogs everywhere, just roaming the streets.  Also, you shouldn't smile at strangers, even if you make eye contact because then people will think you're a 'flirt' (how it was explained to me, three days after I'd been going around smiling).  And all the homes are heated by wood stoves, which is also where all the cooking is done, electricity is very expensive here.  

Officially, Chileans speak Spanish.  However in practice, Chilean Spanish is comprised of mostly chileanisms, spoken very very fast, always dropping syllables and never ever saying the esses.  But they really do want to help you learn, so they turn on their 'correct' Spanish for gringos (non Chilean white people, more a term of endearment than a put down) and slow down, making it easier for us to understand but then as soon as they turn to another Chilean, they're right back to speaking their own crazy version of Spanish.  My favorite chileanismos:  sípo--yes of course, cachay?--get it? feel me?, huevon--dude/asshole, flaite--sketchy, carretear--to party

I forgot how much I missed winter, but I love bundling up to go outside and wearing scarves, headbands and gloves.  It rains here too, a lot!  But when it is sunny the city is so beautiful and really deserves it's title, 'la perla del sur', the pearl of the south.  Valdivia was founded by Germans so beer and chocolate abound.  And the night life is really thriving, thanks to the university crowd.

My host family is so sweet, they have had American exchange students before so they know the deal.  Lunch here is a very very big deal, taking two hours sometimes and so far I haven't had a lunch of less than four courses.  My host mom told me that once she had an exchange student who didn't have time to come home for lunch on Wednesdays.  She was appalled and shocked that they would make her do that.  "She had to buy a lunch at school!"  Imagine!  It's great, lot's of soup, meat, rice and homemade bread.  Dinner and breakfast are pretty light, owing to the enormous midday meal and I think the change of diet will be beneficial, it already feels like a healthier way to eat.  It helps that all the food is very fresh and homemade.  My only complaint is that everyone drinks a ton of Nescafé.  Seriously, like three or four cups a day!  And when I tried to explain that in the states we usually drink brewed coffee instead of instant, my mom said "Well, it's the same thing."  !!!  So I have switched to tea for the year, and I already miss even the cheapest cup of drip coffee. 

So yeah, Chile is a beautiful and wet place, much like home.  The people here are gracious and warm and I am having a great time!  And so far I have not been mugged, robbed, cheated, swindled, married off, seduced by a Chilean,  sold into slavery or harmed in any way.  Not that I'm letting my guard down, don't worry.

Much love,
erin