Thursday, September 2, 2010

Greetings from the End of the World

First blog post from Chile!


When people find out I've only been here a weekish they always say, "how do you like it at the end of the world?" or "Welcome to the end of the world!"  Chileans complain a lot about all that is wrong with their country, starting with the awkward geographic location, but it seems to me that they are secretly pretty proud of themselves for inhabiting such an unlikley place. 

Chile doesn't seem that different than the states at first glance, but it's the little things that always catch me off guard.  For example, there are stray dogs everywhere, just roaming the streets.  Also, you shouldn't smile at strangers, even if you make eye contact because then people will think you're a 'flirt' (how it was explained to me, three days after I'd been going around smiling).  And all the homes are heated by wood stoves, which is also where all the cooking is done, electricity is very expensive here.  

Officially, Chileans speak Spanish.  However in practice, Chilean Spanish is comprised of mostly chileanisms, spoken very very fast, always dropping syllables and never ever saying the esses.  But they really do want to help you learn, so they turn on their 'correct' Spanish for gringos (non Chilean white people, more a term of endearment than a put down) and slow down, making it easier for us to understand but then as soon as they turn to another Chilean, they're right back to speaking their own crazy version of Spanish.  My favorite chileanismos:  sípo--yes of course, cachay?--get it? feel me?, huevon--dude/asshole, flaite--sketchy, carretear--to party

I forgot how much I missed winter, but I love bundling up to go outside and wearing scarves, headbands and gloves.  It rains here too, a lot!  But when it is sunny the city is so beautiful and really deserves it's title, 'la perla del sur', the pearl of the south.  Valdivia was founded by Germans so beer and chocolate abound.  And the night life is really thriving, thanks to the university crowd.

My host family is so sweet, they have had American exchange students before so they know the deal.  Lunch here is a very very big deal, taking two hours sometimes and so far I haven't had a lunch of less than four courses.  My host mom told me that once she had an exchange student who didn't have time to come home for lunch on Wednesdays.  She was appalled and shocked that they would make her do that.  "She had to buy a lunch at school!"  Imagine!  It's great, lot's of soup, meat, rice and homemade bread.  Dinner and breakfast are pretty light, owing to the enormous midday meal and I think the change of diet will be beneficial, it already feels like a healthier way to eat.  It helps that all the food is very fresh and homemade.  My only complaint is that everyone drinks a ton of Nescafé.  Seriously, like three or four cups a day!  And when I tried to explain that in the states we usually drink brewed coffee instead of instant, my mom said "Well, it's the same thing."  !!!  So I have switched to tea for the year, and I already miss even the cheapest cup of drip coffee. 

So yeah, Chile is a beautiful and wet place, much like home.  The people here are gracious and warm and I am having a great time!  And so far I have not been mugged, robbed, cheated, swindled, married off, seduced by a Chilean,  sold into slavery or harmed in any way.  Not that I'm letting my guard down, don't worry.

Much love,
erin

Thursday, August 12, 2010

First Blog Post!

Greetings Family and Friends!

I see you have found my blog.  As you may have heard, I will be spending the next 11 months in Chile and South America, studying at La Universidad Austral de Chile (from here on referred to as UACH) in Valdivia, Chile.  The purpose of this blog is to keep anyone interested relatively informed of my activities, adventures and travels.  In order to write this blog, I have forced myself to accept that there is a certain level of interest in what I'll be doing (certainly the point of what is essentially a huge mass email is that someone reads it?), but feel free to read only what you want, just look at the pictures, or never look at this blog again and forget all about it.  I will not be offended in any way and we can still be friends, promise.  But if you are interested in my take on  life in South America and my experiences in it, I will be here to inform you and occasionally post a stunning photograph.

That being said, let's start with some geography!  This is La República de Chile (pronnounced chee-lay):



I'll be living in Valdivia, which is on that map there, it's sort of near Puerto Montt, about 500 miles south (or about 800 km) of Santiago.  It is a town of about 140,000 people, capital of Region X or the Lakes Region.  I'll be living there with a host family and attending UACH for two semesters with a summer break between December and March.  By the way, this is an open invitation to anyone I know to meet me anywhere in South America during that time, so far I have no plans.  Definitely want to hit Patagonia and Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Antarctica, Buenos Aires, Cusco, Machu Picchu, Quito, maybe the Amazon, maybe Rio?  Who knows but I have three months.  Let me know if you'll be in the area! 

If you are interested in more information about the great nation of Chile you should check out it's wiki page, it's pretty good.  Or here are some books I've been reading this summer about it, all very good:  My Invented Country: A Memoir by Isabel Allende, In Patagonia by Bruce Chatwin, Travels in a Thin Country: A Journey Through Chile by Sara Wheeler, The Penguin History of Latin America by Edwin Williamson and also a documentary called 180 Degrees South that is excellent and will make you quit your job. 

I fly out of Portland on Thursday the 19th and I would love to see you before I go so feel free to email me or call or facebook or whatever.  Also, I'm not exactly okay with having both a facebook and a blog so let's not talk about it.

Next time I will also post a mailing address and I love getting mail.  My promise to you is that if you send me a letter I will at the very least send you a postcard. 

Thanks for your interest in me! 


Much Love,
erin